Nihongami (Japanese hairstyles) - part 6/12: female styles, by Shota KotakeKougai mage variationsKou

Nihongami (Japanese hairstyles) - part 6/12: female styles, by Shota KotakeKougai mage variationsKougai is a two pieces kanzashi (hairpin) which was slipped through the hair to keep chignon from collasping.During Muromachi period, upper rank women living in palaces used to tie their long hair in kougai mage for daily life (official events required Subeshi gami). While first very informal, kougai use have spread to many hairstyles and become a popular accessory.Katahazushi is a kougai mage variation which was popular among palaces ladies in waiting during Edo era. The chignon was quite flat with a kougai pinned in the topknot center to hold the looping bun. Straight long hair was needed to achieve this look (as it was difficult to use fake locks to style it).Sakkou was especially popular for young married female in Kamigata (Western Japan Kyoto+Osaka area). This intricated style lasted from later Edo period until the end of Meiji era. Hair was tied in a topknot with a bridge like lock atop of it called “sabaki bashi”. Nowadays, this style is still used by Maiko for their erikae (ceremony when they become Geiko).Ryowa was popular among Kamigata area married women. At the topknot root, hair was divided in 2 and styled with loops pinned with a kougai. This stylish hairstyle was used for formal occasions (Edo/Tokyo inhabitants favored maru mage).Suisho mage was only worn in Kyoto by 20s years old women. It’s a style quite similar to Shimada mage. Its main trademark is the kanoko (dappled fabric hairband) looped around the kougai pin to tie the topknot.Shimada Kuzushi is a variation of Shimada mage and kougai mage. It was worn by middle age women (above 40 year old). When used by palace ladies in waiting it was called “Shi no ji age”. The chignon was big on the nape with a slopping topknot pined with kougai. From profile, this hairstyle had an S shape. -- source link
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