Cocktail DressChristian DiorDaimaru Dior Salon1958Orange rayon woven with gold and silver Dacron thr
Cocktail DressChristian DiorDaimaru Dior Salon1958Orange rayon woven with gold and silver Dacron threads, patterned with pine motif; set of bolero and dress with brassiere inside.In 1953 Dior formed a licensing department. Daimaru, a Japanese department store immediately applied for a licence, and the Daimaru Dior Salon opened that same year. Dior haute couture designs were then produced in Japan. Dior continued to expand the licensing business and strengthened its foundation.This dress was made with Japanese fabric. This is a specialised design, with a zouave skirt by Yves Saint Laurent, who took over the house in 1957. Christian Dior also often used traditional Japanese silks.Images and text taken from the book: Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th Century, Kyoto Costume Institute, pgs 526-527. A striking dress with a bulging zouave skirt in a jacquard material with a pine motif woven in gold and silver. The zouave skirt is a characteristic design by Yves Saint Laurent, who took over the fashion house after the sudden death of Christian Dior in 1957.The dress was manufactured by Salon Daimaru Dior, an order-made salon with exclusive rights to the Japan market via an agreement between the Daimaru department store and Dior in 1954. The textile uses “Tetoron,” a polyester thread launched in 1958 by Toyo Rayon (now Toray) and Teikoku Jinzo Kenshi (now Teijin).The haute couture house sold patterns worldwide, authorizing legal copies. In the United States, which had high tariffs on imported apparel, ready-to-ware manufacturers acquired many patterns from haute couture housesand used them as the base for luxury ready-to-wear clothing. In 1948, the year after establishing his house, Christian Dior had set up Christian Dior New York Inc. to sell luxury ready-to-wear clothing and accessories. In 1950, he established a Christian Dior diffusion department to license his designs. This cocktail dress is a product of Dior’s global strategy.Triggered by Daimaru’s deal, the 1950s saw a series of tie-ups between Japanese department stores and haute couture maisons, including Isetan with Pierre Balmain, Takashimaya with Pierre Cardin, and Mitsukoshi with Guy Laroche. This marked the beginnings of a period when Japanese consumers gained access to information on Paris fashions in real time.http://www.kci.or.jp/archives/digital_archives/detail_273_e.html -- source link
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