galleryofunknowns:vinceaddams:galleryofunknowns:Circle of Henri Pierre Danloux (1753-1809), ‘Portrai
galleryofunknowns:vinceaddams:galleryofunknowns:Circle of Henri Pierre Danloux (1753-1809), ‘Portrait of a young gentleman in an embroidered jacket’, oil on paper laid on canvas then panel, 1700s, French, for sale est. 12,000-18,000 GBP in Christie’s Old Masters Day sale, July 2019I don’t know who decided to call it that but there’s no embroidered jacket, nor any embroidery at all in this painting. He’s wearing a plain wool coat and a waistcoat with a really delightful woven ikat pattern! I’d guess it’s from the 1790′s or late 80′s.This is so interesting! I sometimes change the titles ever so slightly if I believe they’re incorrect or unclear, but I have very little textiles knowledge and in this case, it’s all Christies. The only extra information available is that it was ‘acquired by the grandfather of the present owner in the 1950s’. (x) Thank you for sharing!I’ve seen a few other things described incorrectly by auction houses, and it’s understandable! I don’t suppose they’ve got much time to do research when their main focus is getting things ready to sell. You can see very similar coats in portraits here, here, and here, and here’s an extant one.Ikat is really interesting! It’s a technique where the pattern is resist dyed on the warp before the fabric is woven. (Link to a very informative post about it if anyone wants to read more.) This makes the patterns look like they’re smudged in one direction, and the edge of this waistcoat looks like it’s definitely ikat! The rest of the waistcoat appears to be just regular blue stripes. Waistcoats with fancy woven borders used along the front edges and applied to the other edges as trim were pretty common around this time.Here’s a closeup of a 1790′s coat from The Met, which has ikat patterning on the darker stripes:And a floral ikat wrapping gown:The Artist and his Wife by Giuseppe Baldrighi, c. 1760 (detail)The waistcoat in that portrait is the only ikat 18th century waistcoat I’ve seen as far as I can recall! There’s an extant 1790′s waistcoat that I thought was ikat, but upon looking at the closeups it turns out it’s embroidered to look like ikat, which is perhaps even more fascinating. -- source link
#18th century#portraits#paintings#fashion#textiles#history#extant garments