tanuki-kimono: The World of Edo Dandyism: From Swords to Inrō, Tokyo Nezu Museum Far from salarymen
tanuki-kimono: The World of Edo Dandyism: From Swords to Inrō, Tokyo Nezu Museum Far from salarymen cliché – all white shirt and grim dark suit, Japanese men have kept since Edo period a refined taste for dandyism and excentricity. This fashion sense long history is showcased in Nezu museum late exhibition.Dandies samurai showed elegance through their kimono and katana (which had intricated handle, guard and scabbard ornaments) but also with supremely refined personnal accessories: inrô and netsuke, kiseru pipes, tobacco pouches, paper cases, brushes set etc – all made using precious wood, ivory, lacquer, gold, silver, mother of pearl, coral, shagreen, …“Somptuous weapons spread during 19th century, especially when State power forbade samurai to wear katana publicly and go to war (1876)” explains Kayoko Muraoka, curator at Nezu museum.“By mimicking dandy samurai accessories, rich merchants have tried since Edo era to copy the warrior class spiritual values. In time, they also helped keeping alive those crafts, sophisticated but expensive”.Nowadays, a fine formal kimono set cost around 500.000 yens (3.500 euros), but prices can increase exponentially depending on materials used. Some rich industrials and traders are now reviving samurai ethics and Edo traditions.“Dandysm is still here today, from companies and universities to show business, fashion creators, artists or kabuki actors” stresses Christian Polak, a Tokyo businessman and historian. “Young people wear makeup, sculpt their brows, trendily dress up – it is modern dandyism”. You can see young people dying their hair with different colors, sometimes following seasonal changes – like Edo dandies adapted their kimono and accessories to Nature circle. “In Japan, it is difficult to express identity thought words. People have found subtle ways of doing it” assures Christian Polak. “While most salarymen wear white shirts and dark suits, watches, lighters, chic iPhone accessories etc. are all a way of standing out, showing one’s personal taste and sensibility” adds Kayoko Muraoka.Muted in 1960-1970′s, dandyism has made its reappearance in the 1980’s. “Now, young people don’t want to buy a car they prefer accessories" notes Christian Polak.And if dandyism is not the main worry for 25-35 youngs, tormented by jobs and professional ascension, it “still is a whole part of the Japanese soul” insists Christian Polak.Seniors are its best example. In Japan, third age dandies don’t shy away from hats, pocket handkerchieves and beautifful canes.“Extravaganza sleeps in more than one Japanese in his fifties” assures François Lachaud, head of École française d'Extrême-Orient (EFEO), in his essay about Eccentricity in Japan. “Self-concern and hidden inner worlds are essential forms of identity search in today’s Japan”.[source: loose personnal translation of this French article Japon : le dandysme dans la peau] -- source link
#edo dandyism#kimono