wafflepatterns:Padded version of Yuzu coatI have made two padded jackets using my existing patterns

wafflepatterns:Padded version of Yuzu coatI have made two padded jackets using my existing patterns for this winter. Here is the 2nd experiment; Puffy padded version of Yuzu coat. (Please see here for the 1st version with Cookie blouson pattern). I really love the result and am sharing here how I made it. I hope it will be a tip/reference for people who want to make one, too.It is not really a down jacket with real feather, but I made it with a normal house sewing machine with batting materials.I used Yuzu coat pattern. Normally, double-breasted design is not suitable for very thick materials like batting/quilted fabrics. But I see many double-breasted padded jackets on high street fashion and they all look so cute. So I decided to try it.I did not really change the pattern. Just shortened the front part of the high neck collar. Because this thick fabric with this high neck design gives me an uneasy feeling around my face. The cut is similar to the front part of this hood pattern.This pattern is very roomy, so I used my usual size without alterations. But depending on materials or how to wear, using one size larger might be an option.For other small adjustments, I added an inside pocket and knit cuffs for extra warmth.This shell fabric is corduroy. First I was searching for faux leather or wool twill, but when I saw this one at the store, I decided to use it immediately. This corduroy has a very soft touch and I really love the rich shade.I considered the water/windproof fabric will be a very functional option, but I still am too chicken to use them. Also, I could not find a nice one.For the batting, I used about 20mm thick for the bodice, sleeve and collar parts and 12mm thick for the small parts like pocket welt pieces. I did not use it on the facing parts.The sewing process is basically the same as the original one. Just add the batting as an interlining to the shell and topstitch. (I explained this step in another post. Please refer to that.)As for the hem finish, since it is difficult to iron and crease the fabric after interlined with the batting, I pressed and creased all the hem before the interlining process. Then cut and omit the batting on the hem allowance.Many store-bought padded jackets use hem finish with the lining edge to edge or shell + facing + lining instead of the folded hem finish. I think it is because they are using mainly water/windproof fabric and those cannot be ironed or creased. Also, the hem + facing finish is suitable for making a string casing. I want to use this faced hem detail when I will make a more functional/outdoor style one.As for the knitted cuffs, I used the same way as the Tsubaki coat. It is constructed from shell + facing + knit + lining from outside to inside.For flattening and shaping the edge, I used edge stitching a lot. The seam allowances of the edges of the collar and front center are turned to the facing side and edge-stitched. I like it more than topstitching because it emphasizes the puffy effect. Topstitching will be more suitable and functional for sporty items.The front fastenings are fabric-covered snap fasteners and buttons. I wanted to add a bit lux touch to this silky corduroy. I was planning to use metal snap fasteners or magnet type. But it seems too heavy for this fabric and I could not find suitable design ones. I used the lining fabric for covering the snaps and the self fabric for the front side. But there are ready-made covered snaps available on the market.I am very much satisfied with this result. They suit this padded corduroy better than I expected.Other small points/tips are the same as the padded Cookie blouson. Please refer to it.It was a time-consuming project but I am really like the result! Also, challenging projects cheered me up under this unusual circumstance in lockdown.I hope this post will be a small help for people who also want to make a winter coat.If you plan to make a padded coat, I strongly recommend experimenting with your materials well. Please consider choosing the right and suitable pattern/size or finishing treatment with your materials and design intentions. Also, I recommend researching store made ones which have a similar design to your idea.You can find the sewing pattern of the Yuzu coat pattern here.***************************follow me!  Instagram /// Twitter /// Facebook /// Shop /// Pinterest /// Newsletter -- source link

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